I travelled to Mexico for the first time in January 2023, and to quote a certain teenage fiction series, I fell unconditionally and irrevocably in love with it. It is a beautiful country full of colour and life, and never in my wildest dreams did I think I would enjoy Mexican cuisine so much. If you think you know what Mexican food tastes like, reserve judgment until you travel to Mexico itself.
I hope you will forgive me for technically catfishing you a little here - including your arrival and departure days, this itinerary is 9 days long in total and will give you the perfect introduction to the country, starting and ending in Mexico City (also known as CDMX). You’ll only need 5 days annual leave if you depart on Saturday and return on the following Sunday!
Day 1: Mexico City (arrival day)
Day 2: Mexico City
Day 3: Puebla
Day 4: Oaxaca
Day 5: Oaxaca
Day 6: Oaxaca / Mitla
Day 7: Huatulco
Day 8: Huatulco
Day 9: Mexico City (departure day)
Day 1: Mexico City (arrival day)
Welcome to Mexico City, a sprawling metropolis situated at 2,240m above sea level. If you arrive in the morning, you can drop your bags off at your hotel before grabbing a coffee and pastry at Café Nin, a popular neighbourhood cafe whose guava rolls are the stuff of legend.
Hop on the subway (which is pretty clean and easy to navigate) and take the opportunity to stroll through Parque Lincoln, a beautiful little tree-lined park located in the Rodeo Drive district of CDMX, Polanco.
As well as countless high-end shops, architecturally stunning mansions and Antara Fashion Hall (a slick shopping complex stuffed with your favourite brands), Polanco also happens to be home to two of CDMX’s most lauded dining establishments - Pujol, of Netflix’s Chef’s Table’s fame, and Quintonil, which has consistently made The World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list every year.
Both restaurants require reservations made months in advance, so get your Type-A friends on it early. We went for Quintonil and had a very enjoyable long lunch here, with the dishes being inventive yet uncompromising on authentic Mexican flavours.
Walk it all off at Chapultepec Park, which is just a stone’s throw away from Polanco. This sprawling urban jungle park is huge, vibrant and filled with cultural landmarks - and if you’re coming on a weekend, the buzzing weekend market is well worth a visit with its street food and souvenir stalls. Otherwise, make your way up the hill to visit Castillo de Chapultepec, the former palace which now functions as a history museum and an amazing viewpoint from which to see CDMX in all its glory.
For dinner, you will have likely heard of Taquería Orinoco, which has plenty of people online waxing lyrical about “the best tacos in town”. I wouldn’t go that far, but it still makes a great first dinner stop in CDMX, with multiple branches dotted around town. Surprisingly, I found their frijoles charros to be the highlight of the menu - think of a savoury, hearty bean stew packed full of flavour.
Another solid taco spot with multiple branches is El Tizoncito, which is particularly well-known for their tacos al pastor, or grilled pork tacos served with slivers of pineapple for a burst of sweetness. These were honestly the best tacos al pastor of my whole trip, so don’t pass up on the chance to try one from here.
To finish off your evening, grab some churros at one of El Moro’s shops, which are freshly fried to order and dusted liberally with cinnamon sugar. The fact that the original branch in the Centro Historico is open 24 hours makes it a popular spot for night-time revellers.
Day 2: Mexico City
Today is really the day to tick off all the attractions of the city - so put on your most comfortable pair of shoes and take yourself on a walking tour. Start at Alameda Central, the city’s oldest public park lined with trees and dotted with fountains. At the end of the park, you will find Casa de los Azulejos, or the house of tiles, famous for its picturesque (you guessed it) blue tile facade. The inside of the building is also beautiful and worth exploring, although I cannot attest to the quality of the restaurant inside!
Other worthwhile stops in the city include the Palacio Postal, the century-old yet still functioning post office with a beautiful interior, and the Palacio de Bellas Artes, a historic venue for arts events and the home of Diego Rivera’s murals. Soon enough, you will inevitably hit Zócalo, which is the name by which CDMX’s gargantuan main square is known. One side of the square is dominated by the Palacio Nacional, and another by the Catedral Metropolitana (Metropolitan Cathedral), which is just as grand and imposing on the inside as it is on the outside.
If you are, like me, game for a spot of restaurant hopping for lunch, get started at Los Especiales which is located near Zócalo. This popular local joint specialises in tacos de canasta or basket tacos, which are constructed by ladling a spoonful of umami-laden stew into a soft steamed tortilla, and topping it off with a healthy splat of creamy guacamole (the avocados really do hit different in Mexico).
As hard as it may be, try to exercise restraint with the tacos in order to make it to your next lunch spot - the Mercado de San Juan, where you will have the honour of patronising El Puerto de Alvarado. This unassuming little stall/restaurant does the most delicious seafood ceviche I’ve ever had - we descended upon their plates of zingy tilapia and octopus like crows to a carcass, and heaped these shiny jewels of fish onto our flat tostadas along with smatterings of hot sauce. What you will get is a symphony of textures and flavours.
Time to end lunch with something sweet - and there’s no better place than Pastelería Ideal to satisfy your sweet tooth craving. This hallowed bakery is what I imagine Willy Wonka’s factory to be like, if he turned his attention away from chocolate and towards pastries. Towers and trays of innumerable tempting treats crowd the shop here, so go ham and indulge yourself in whatever takes your fancy.
Now comes the afternoon, which is the perfect time to make the trip to see what is arguably the city’s most famous attraction - La Casa Azul, the former home of the legendary Mexican artist Frida Kahlo. Chances are that even if you don’t know much about art, you will recognise Frida’s unmistakeable monobrow and her bold, colourful personal style.
This house-turned-museum was my personal highlight of CDMX - not only is the house itself beautiful to wander around, but the exhibits on display and accompanying explanations really do a fantastic job at showcasing Frida’s strength of character, complexity and ground-breaking influence. I myself definitely came away from the museum with a new appreciation for her contributions to art and the adversity she faced as a disabled woman.
Helpfully, La Casa Azul is situated in what is, in my humble opinion, one of CDMX’s loveliest neighbourhoods - Coyoacan. With a daily flea market selling all sorts of colourful wares and a buzzy spacious square with street performers and dog walkers aplenty, the area surrounding Frida Kahlo’s house is well worth walking around after you’re finished at the museum.
For your final dinner in CDMX, indulge in a spot of taqueria hopping around the Roma Sur neighbourhood. The taquerias in this area are low key and frequented by mostly locals - our two favourites were Taquería La Reyna and Taquería Don Frank, which are just a stone’s throw away from each other.
Round off the evening with a nightcap at one of CDMX’s most well-loved cocktail bars, Licorería Limantour, in the adjoining Roma Norte neighbourhood. This slick two-storey bar has consistently made the World’s Best 50 Bars list since 2014, plus it’s just down the road from Taqueria Orinoco in case you get peckish for more tacos before bed!
Day 3: Puebla
Your first foray out of CDMX starts with Puebla, which is about 2-3 hours drive from CDMX (depending on traffic). Mexico’s ADO bus network is affordable, clean and safe, and we took these buses everywhere we went. Puebla is a beautiful, vibrant and very walkable city that is known for its rich culinary tradition, local artist scene and well-preserved colonial architecture.
Sit down for lunch at Comal, a restaurant specialising in delicious Poblano (Pueblan) dishes such as cemitas and chalupas, which are meat-filled sandwiches and fried masa with toppings respectively. If you get a window seat you will be granted a first-class view of the majestic Catedral de Puebla (Puebla Cathedral) just opposite. Another attraction that is next to Comal is the Biblioteca Palafoxiana, the oldest public library in the Americas housing a vast collection of rare books in a Hogwarts / Oxbridge-core setting.
Just a little further from the Biblioteca is Callejón de los Sapos, or the Alley of the Frogs. Don’t let the name dissuade you - this is one of Puebla’s most adorably photogenic streets, with each colonial-style house painted a different bold hue. Equally as beautiful is La Calle de Los Dulches, a charming street lined with artisan candy shops. Many will offer free samples from their mesmerising displays of rainbow wafers and crystallised peaches, so don’t miss out on tasting them.
Once you’ve enjoyed all the sweet treats on offer, head on over to Barrio del Artista, Puebla’s iconic artist quarter, and admire the local artists’ work on display. Finally, if you still have time, definitely go and see Capilla del Rosario, Templo de Santo Domingo - a church which is unassuming from the outside but has sumptuous, fantastically OTT golden interiors.
The aforementioned attractions are all well and good, but nothing quite compares to watching lucha libre (Mexican freestyle wrestling) in the Arena Puebla. Lucha libre is best thought of as a choreographed spectacle, with the wrestlers bedecked in flamboyant costumes (complete with masks) whilst conducting their series of stunts and aerial manoeuvres - sometimes even throwing their opponent within inches of the crowd!
The exhilaration and entertainment of witnessing lucha libre is a perfect way to round off what has hopefully been a fulfilling day in Puebla. And if you loved Puebla as much I did, chances are you will love Oaxaca too…
Day 4: Oaxaca
Oaxaca (pronounced wahaca) is a non-negotiable stop whilst in this part of Mexico. Not only is it an important bastion of indigenous culture, but also its kaleidoscope of picturesque colonial buildings and exquisite food makes it a holidaymaker’s dream.
Oaxaca is about 5 hours away by bus, so you can enjoy a leisurely morning in Puebla ticking off whatever you’ve missed from Day 3 before making the journey down south to arrive in good time for dinner.
There is no shortage of good food in Oaxaca, but the two restaurants that we particularly enjoyed was Casa Oaxaca el Restaurante and El Destilado. Both of these places serve modern Oaxacan cuisine in beautiful surrounds, with El Destilado’s tasting menu being particularly inventive in its use of European flavours and techniques.
Day 5: Oaxaca
One of the best ways to really get to grips with Oaxacan cuisine is by participating in a cooking class, and there is no better place to do one than Casa Crespo, run by Chef Oscar Carrizosa. This multi-course cooking class comes with the option of touring the local food market first with the chef to select ingredients, which is something I’d really recommend doing - there’s nothing quite like having a true master explain novel and exciting produce to you.
After the market tour, roll your sleeves up and get to chopping, pounding and kneading all manner of delicious dishes under Chef Carrizosa’s direction in the lovely courtyard of his home. This class really opened my eyes to the sheer range of Mexican cuisine - I feel that most of us deprived Brits have been duped into thinking Mexican cuisine doesn’t extend beyond tacos and burritos.
When we eventually sat down to enjoy our feast of avocado soup, pumpkin flower tamales with pineapple salsa, sweetcorn ice cream and much, much more, I couldn’t help but marvel at how the food was not only visually so colourful and joyful, but also packed full of complex, rich flavour. Needless to say, I would highly recommend doing a cooking class here!
Spend the rest of the day exploring the Centro Historico of this beautiful sun-soaked golden city. The only place I’d single out for a special mention is the Zócalo, which is the main square framed by the majestic Catedral Metropolitana de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. This lively, bustling square is particularly stunning at golden hour, as is the rest of Oaxaca!
Day 6: Oaxaca / Mitla
Today is your chance to gain a deeper understanding of the indigenous Zapotec peoples’ history by visiting their most important site only an hour away - Mitla. This well-preserved archaeological site used to be the Zapotec capital, and is best toured with a guide who can explain the significance behind each structure.
For people itching for the great outdoors, the Hierve el Agua nature reserve is in this neck of the woods. Whilst we didn’t make it there ourselves, I would definitely love to go in the future - the unique formations of towering rock give the visual effect of splendid waterfalls, and I think it would make for a perfect day trip from Oaxaca.
Otherwise, if you’re more interested in immersing yourself in the local culture, you can watch a demonstration of how traditional Zapotec rugs are made from start to finish from one of the many studios situated around Teotitlán del Valle. These rugs are painstakingly woven on wooden looms to beautiful effect - if I had more space in my suitcase, I would’ve definitely brought one home.
For a pre-dinner tipple, Mezcal Don Agave is a family-run mezcaleria that runs informative tours on how the iconic smoky liquor mezcal is made from start to finish. There is a wide variety of flavours ranging from fruity to spicy, so let your hair down and enjoy putting sample shots of these away (responsibly, of course…)
Day 7: Huatulco
Buckle up for your longest travel day yet, for Huatulco (pronounced wah-tul-co) formally Bahias de Huatulco) is a whopping 9 hours away by car, right on the southern coastline. Be warned that it isn’t the most comfortable journey either given the numerous hairpin mountain turns you will have to endure - so arm yourself with a good neck cushion and a podcast.
Huatulco comprises nine bays, the most central and commercial of which is Santa Cruz. This is where we stayed and it made for a good base from which to explore the wider area.
Once you have decamped and freshened up from the journey here, you may just have enough time to enjoy the dregs of the day sipping cocktails on Playa Santa Cruz, a lively tourist beach which is surprisingly well kept given its popularity. For dinner, you can enjoy a relaxed meal at the al fresco rooftop Restaurante La Chicatana, whose menu offers a diverse array of both Western and Mexican dishes.
Day 8: Huatulco
Today is truly the day to make the most out of your beautiful surroundings. Start by enjoying brunch at one of the many restaurants on Playa La Entrega, another popular beach famous for its clear turquoise waters. You will likely be approached multiple times with offers of snorkelling trips, and I would actually advise that you accept (at the right price), since nothing beats seeing the diverse array of fish and coral up close for yourself. Tours of the surrounding waters only take about an hour max so it’s easily slotted in as a daytime activity, and the local guides are great at finding the best place to spot wildlife and ensuring that tourists respect the reef.
Slip away from the burgeoning afternoon crowds by escaping to Playa el Violin, a secret beach that you have to walk down to from the main road, with the path itself hidden behind trees. This is a wonderfully secluded, ungroomed stretch of sand with azure blue waters, so bring a good beach towel and a big sun hat and settle down with that book you’ve been meaning to finish.
Shower off and change for your late afternoon-to-evening activity - another cooking class, this time with the stupendously good Wahaca Cooking, located a short drive away from Santa Cruz. This again takes place in Chef Alfredo’s own family kitchen, and he does an excellent job of making you feel at home as he explains how to prepare the bowls upon bowls of globular aubergines, fragrant herbs, salty cheese, shrivelled butterfly pea flowers and bauble-like shiny tomatoes. The result was among the best meals we had in Mexico, so I would highly, highly recommend this experience.
After enjoying your dinner, watch sunset at the nearby Playa La Bocana, a quiet and serene beach that provides the perfect atmosphere for contemplative people-watching. It’ll be difficult to tear yourself away from here to go home and pack up your bags in time for tomorrow.
Day 9: Mexico City (departure day)
Sadly, all good things must come to an end, and it’ll be time for you to make your way to the nearby Huatulco airport (which is surprisingly nice with its outdoor shopping section) to take a short 1 hour flight back to CDMX, in time for what will presumably be a much longer flight home.
However, if you’re not quite ready to have the post-holiday blues, the adventure can continue… if I have you intrigued, read my post on how you can tack on an extra week in Mexico’s incomparable Yucatán peninsula here!
Thanks, useful info! Will consider this for a future holiday!